We Might Go Diving in Hungary — or Croatia

We’re spending the whole of October at a friend’s lake house in Balatonalmádi, on the north shore of Lake Balaton in Hungary. There’s also talk of a weekend trip to Croatia while we’re there. Between the two, I’m hoping there’s a real chance to get in the water.

Option one: right where we’re staying

Lake Balaton is Hungary’s — and Central Europe’s — largest lake, and diving there is only legally permitted between September and April, outside the main swimming and boating season. That means our whole October stay actually falls inside the window when diving is allowed, which I wasn’t expecting when we booked the trip.

The lake is shallow overall, and by October the water is cooling — average autumn temperatures sit around 15°C, so a proper wetsuit would be essential, not optional. I haven’t yet confirmed a dive shop actually operating out of Balatonalmádi itself; the dive schools I’ve found so far are based further away in Hungary. That’s something to sort out locally once we’re there, not something I can promise from here.

Option two: a weekend in Croatia

The closest stretch of Croatian coast to Lake Balaton is Istria, up in the northwest — places like Pula and Rovinj are roughly a five-hour drive away, realistic for a weekend rather than a full holiday. October sits at the tail end of Croatia’s main diving season, which generally runs from May to October. The water’s cooler than in August, but visibility is often still very good, and a lot of divers actually prefer the quieter autumn sites. A 7mm wetsuit or hood is the usual recommendation by then.

Would I actually be allowed to dive, either way?

Yes, in principle. Most operators — in Hungary or Croatia — ask for at least an Open Water certification, which I have, alongside a certified adult buddy. My PADI Junior Open Water certification should cover me for the kind of shallow, supervised diving either option would involve.

What I don’t know yet

Whether the Croatia leg of the trip actually happens, whether there’s a dive operator near Balatonalmádi willing to take a booking, and which of the two — if either — actually works out. I’m writing this now, before any of that is confirmed, because I’d rather have an honest record of what I was hoping for than pretend it was always definite.

Questions & Answers

Can you actually dive in Lake Balaton in October?

Legally, yes — diving there is only permitted between September and April, so October is within the allowed window. I haven’t yet confirmed a dive shop operating right in Balatonalmádi, though.

Where in Croatia would you go?

Nothing’s confirmed, but Istria — near Pula or Rovinj — is the closest stretch of coast to Lake Balaton, at around five hours’ drive.

Is October a bad time to dive in either place?

Not necessarily. Balaton’s water is cooling to around 15°C by October, and Croatia is near the end of its main season with cooler-but-diveable water — both just need proper thermal protection.

Are you actually qualified to dive at either?

Yes, in principle — my PADI Junior Open Water certification meets the minimum most operators ask for, diving with a certified adult buddy.